當(dāng)您在選購(gòu)防曬產(chǎn)品時(shí)，你一定關(guān)注過(guò)SPF、PA+、臨界波長(zhǎng)（CW）或Boots星級(jí)這些標(biāo)識(shí)。這些看似簡(jiǎn)單的數(shù)字和符號(hào)，實(shí)際上是經(jīng)過(guò)一系列嚴(yán)格、標(biāo)準(zhǔn)化測(cè)試得出的科學(xué)結(jié)論。

「防曬功效測(cè)試的國(guó)際標(biāo)準(zhǔn)體系」

目前行業(yè)普遍采用的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)包括：

·ISO 24444：防曬因子（SPF）的體內(nèi)測(cè)定

·ISO 24442：UVA防護(hù)（UVA-PF）的體內(nèi)測(cè)試方法

·ISO 24443：UVA防護(hù)（UVA-PF）的體外測(cè)試方法

·ISO 23675：防曬因子（SPF）的體外測(cè)定方法

·ISO 23698：用漫反射光譜法測(cè)量防曬效果

除了ISO標(biāo)準(zhǔn)外，行業(yè)還廣泛采用COLIPA（現(xiàn)為Cosmetics Europe）指南和Boots Star Rating體系，這些標(biāo)準(zhǔn)為防曬產(chǎn)品的功效評(píng)價(jià)提供了完整的技術(shù)框架。

「測(cè)試方法分類與應(yīng)用」

化妝品行業(yè)的防曬功效測(cè)試主要分為兩大類：體內(nèi)測(cè)試和體外測(cè)試。

體內(nèi)測(cè)試：以人體為測(cè)試對(duì)象，直接在志愿者皮膚上評(píng)估防曬產(chǎn)品防止曬紅（評(píng)估SPF值）或曬黑（評(píng)估PA等級(jí)）的能力。這種方法被認(rèn)為是傳統(tǒng)的“金標(biāo)準(zhǔn)"，但對(duì)人體存在一定的損傷且可能有致癌的風(fēng)險(xiǎn)，而且存在成本高昂、周期長(zhǎng)、受個(gè)體差異影響大等局限性。

體外測(cè)試：利用專業(yè)的實(shí)驗(yàn)室儀器，模擬紫外線對(duì)涂有樣品的特定基材的照射過(guò)程，通過(guò)測(cè)量樣品的紫外線透射率或吸光度，再經(jīng)由公式和標(biāo)準(zhǔn)計(jì)算出防曬指數(shù)。

體外測(cè)試具有便捷、成本可控且不受人體變異因素影響等優(yōu)勢(shì)，正在成為研發(fā)和質(zhì)量控制中重要的一環(huán)。

「防曬測(cè)試儀器：SPF-290AS紫外透過(guò)率/防曬指數(shù)分析儀」

在體外測(cè)試中，SOLAR LIGHT的SPF-290AS紫外透過(guò)率/防曬指數(shù)分析儀，可用于防曬產(chǎn)品的功效測(cè)試。該儀器通過(guò)測(cè)量樣品在紫外線波段的透射率來(lái)評(píng)估防曬效果。

SPF-290AS的光學(xué)系統(tǒng)采用功率穩(wěn)定的150W無(wú)臭氧氙燈，配合光電倍增管（PMT）探測(cè)器，能夠測(cè)量290nm~400n波長(zhǎng)范圍內(nèi)的光信號(hào)變化。儀器配備的自動(dòng)化X-Y樣品平臺(tái)可以實(shí)現(xiàn)多點(diǎn)定位和掃描，完成一次全波段測(cè)量的最短時(shí)間為24秒。

該儀器的測(cè)試方法符合ISO 23675、ISO 24443等國(guó)際標(biāo)準(zhǔn)要求，可以計(jì)算SPF、臨界波長(zhǎng)（CW）、UVA-PF等參數(shù)。軟件支持用戶根據(jù)需求調(diào)整測(cè)試參數(shù)。

在樣品處理方面，對(duì)于乳液、膏霜等樣品，可以使用注射器將樣品涂布在特定粗糙度的PMMA板上進(jìn)行測(cè)試；對(duì)于噴霧類產(chǎn)品，可以采用石英板作為測(cè)試載體。

「關(guān)于SPF-290AS，你可能想了解這些」

1）它的測(cè)試結(jié)果準(zhǔn)嗎？和體內(nèi)實(shí)驗(yàn)對(duì)比怎么樣？

它的準(zhǔn)確性經(jīng)過(guò)了大量驗(yàn)證。從長(zhǎng)期的使用情況和客戶反饋來(lái)看，儀器測(cè)量的結(jié)果與人體皮膚測(cè)試的結(jié)果非常接近。

2）SPF-290AS可以直接代替體內(nèi)測(cè)試嗎？

很遺憾，目前還不行。根據(jù)像美國(guó)FDA這樣的法規(guī)要求，產(chǎn)品最終標(biāo)注的SPF值必須基于體內(nèi)測(cè)試。但SPF-290AS在配方篩選和優(yōu)化環(huán)節(jié)能節(jié)省大量前期的時(shí)間和資金投入。

3）為什么是檢測(cè)290~400nm這個(gè)范圍？

這是防曬的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)范圍。這個(gè)波長(zhǎng)區(qū)間正好覆蓋了紫外線中對(duì)我們皮膚有影響的UVA和UVB全部波段，是國(guó)際法規(guī)和科學(xué)界的計(jì)算防曬指數(shù)的基準(zhǔn)。

4）SPF-290AS的光源有什么特別之處？

它采用連續(xù)紫外光源，盡可能模擬了真實(shí)的太陽(yáng)光。這種設(shè)計(jì)更接近體內(nèi)測(cè)試的環(huán)境和我們?cè)趹敉饨佑|到的日光，使得測(cè)量結(jié)果更具實(shí)際參考意義。

5）測(cè)出來(lái)的數(shù)據(jù)方便做進(jìn)一步分析嗎？

非常方便。儀器的SPF數(shù)據(jù)采用標(biāo)準(zhǔn)ASCII格式存儲(chǔ)，常用軟件如Excel、Access都可讀取。

6）該怎么涂抹樣品呢？

操作流程很直觀：先對(duì)專用的測(cè)試板（如PMMA板）進(jìn)行一次“空白"測(cè)量作為基準(zhǔn)。然后，將定量的防曬產(chǎn)品以點(diǎn)涂的形式均勻涂開在板上，形成一層厚度一致的薄膜。WinSPF軟件的在線幫助欄目詳細(xì)說(shuō)明了操作步驟。

7）儀器工作時(shí)會(huì)產(chǎn)生有害的臭氧嗎？

針對(duì)設(shè)備可能產(chǎn)生臭氧的疑問(wèn)，進(jìn)行了嚴(yán)格的驗(yàn)證。盡管部分電子設(shè)備在運(yùn)行時(shí)確實(shí)會(huì)產(chǎn)生微量臭氧，但SPF-290AS分析儀所產(chǎn)生的臭氧濃度，低于當(dāng)前已知的任何測(cè)試方法的檢測(cè)下限。

使用Lab Safety Supply的專業(yè)臭氧檢測(cè)工具（具體貨號(hào)為1A-5155-6和1A-5154-6）進(jìn)行了實(shí)際測(cè)試。測(cè)試過(guò)程中，技術(shù)人員讓設(shè)備連續(xù)運(yùn)行數(shù)小時(shí)，并在其旁邊進(jìn)行監(jiān)測(cè)，檢測(cè)工具均未顯示出存在臭氧的反應(yīng)。

需要說(shuō)明的是，此次所用檢測(cè)工具的靈敏度為：在15分鐘的檢測(cè)周期內(nèi)，可檢測(cè)到0.1ppm的臭氧。測(cè)試結(jié)果遠(yuǎn)低于此限值，充分證明了設(shè)備使用的安全性。

上海微譜檢測(cè)使用SPF-290AS進(jìn)行了測(cè)試：使用兩個(gè)防曬標(biāo)準(zhǔn)品進(jìn)行方法驗(yàn)證，測(cè)試結(jié)果均符合SPF標(biāo)準(zhǔn)品要求范圍

上海微譜檢測(cè)使用SPF-290AS進(jìn)行了測(cè)試：不同類型得防曬產(chǎn)品體內(nèi)、體外檢測(cè)的一致性較好

「測(cè)試儀器的應(yīng)用價(jià)值」

在化妝品研發(fā)過(guò)程中，使用SPF-290AS這類儀器可以幫助研發(fā)人員測(cè)試不同配方的防曬性能，為配方優(yōu)化提供數(shù)據(jù)支持。

在生產(chǎn)質(zhì)量控制環(huán)節(jié)，通過(guò)對(duì)產(chǎn)品進(jìn)行定期測(cè)試，可以確保不同批次產(chǎn)品防曬效果的穩(wěn)定性。基于儀器測(cè)試獲得的數(shù)據(jù)，可以為產(chǎn)品功效宣稱提供技術(shù)支持，有助于企業(yè)應(yīng)對(duì)市場(chǎng)監(jiān)督和質(zhì)量審核。

「結(jié)語(yǔ)」

防曬功效的測(cè)試需要遵循科學(xué)的方法和標(biāo)準(zhǔn)規(guī)范。從體內(nèi)測(cè)試到體外測(cè)試，國(guó)際標(biāo)準(zhǔn)體系為防曬產(chǎn)品的功效評(píng)價(jià)提供了完整的技術(shù)框架。SOLAR LIGHT的SPF-290AS提供了一種技術(shù)選擇，可以用于防曬產(chǎn)品的研發(fā)和質(zhì)量控制。

作為Solar Light的合作伙伴，我們致力于為化妝品行業(yè)提供防曬檢測(cè)技術(shù)支持。如需了解更詳細(xì)的儀器信息或測(cè)試方法，歡迎與我們聯(lián)系！

How is Sun Protection Factor (SPF) Measured? Understanding International Standards and Testing Instruments

When selecting sun protection products, you have likely noticed labels such as SPF, PA+, Critical Wavelength (CW), or Boots Star Rating. These seemingly simple numbers and symbols are, in fact, scientific conclusions derived from a series of rigorous and standardized tests.

「International Standard System for Sun Protection Efficacy Testing」

The standards currently widely adopted in the industry include:

·ISO 24444: In vivo determination of sun protection factor (SPF)

·ISO 24442: In vivo UVA protection (UVA-PF) test method

·ISO 24443: In vitro UVA protection (UVA-PF) test method

·ISO 23675: In vitro determination of sun protection factor (SPF)

·ISO 23698: Measurement of sunscreen efficacy by diffuse reflectance spectroscopy

In addition to ISO standards, the industry also widely adopts the COLIPA (now Cosmetics Europe) guidelines and the Boots Star Rating system. These standards provide a complete technical framework for evaluating the efficacy of sun protection products.

「Classification and Application of Testing Methods」

Sun protection efficacy testing in the cosmetics industry is mainly divided into two categories: in vivo testing and in vitro testing.

In vivo testing: Uses human subjects to directly evaluate the ability of a sun protection product to prevent sunburn (assessing SPF value) or tanning (assessing PA grade) on volunteers' skin. This method is considered the traditional "gold standard." However, it poses some potential harm and carcinogenic risk to humans, along with limitations such as high cost, long cycles, and significant influence from individual variations.

In vitro testing: Utilizes specialized laboratory instruments to simulate the process of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on specific substrates coated with the sample. The sun protection factor is calculated via formulas and standards by measuring the sample's UV transmittance or absorbance.

In vitro testing offers advantages such as convenience, controllable costs, and freedom from human variability factors. It is becoming an indispensable part of research & development and quality control.

「Sun Protection Testing Instrument: Model SPF-290AS Automated UV Transmittance / SPF Analyzer」

In in vitro testing, SOLAR LIGHT's SPF-290AS (Automated UV Transmittance / SPF Analyzer) can be used for efficacy testing of sun protection products. This instrument evaluates sun protection effectiveness by measuring the sample's transmittance in the ultraviolet wavelength band.

The optical system of the SPF-290AS uses a 150W ozone-free xenon lamp with stable power output, coupled with a photomultiplier tube (PMT) detector, capable of measuring light signal changes in the 290nm to 400nm wavelength range. The instrument's automated X-Y sample stage enables multi-point positioning and scanning, with a minimum time of 24 seconds to complete a full spectrum measurement.

The testing methodology of this instrument complies with international standard requirements such as ISO 23675 and ISO 24443, and can calculate parameters like SPF, Critical Wavelength (CW), and UVA-PF. The software allows users to adjust testing parameters as needed.

Regarding sample handling, for samples like emulsions and creams, a syringe can be used to apply the sample onto a PMMA plate with specific roughness for testing. For spray products, a quartz plate can be used as the test substrate.

「Things You Might Want to Know About the SPF-290AS」

1)  How accurate are its test results? How do they compare to in vivo tests?

Its accuracy has been extensively validated. Based on long-term usage and customer feedback, the results measured by the instrument are very close to those from human skin tests.

2)  Can the SPF-290AS completely replace in vivo testing?

Unfortunately, not yet. According to regulatory requirements like those from the U.S. FDA, the final labeled SPF value of a product must be based on in vivo testing. However, the SPF-290AS can save significant upfront time and financial investment during the formulation screening and optimization stages.

3)  Why is the detection range 290~400nm?

This is the standard range for sun protection testing. This wavelength interval precisely covers both UVA and UVB bands of ultraviolet radiation that affect our skin. It is the baseline recognized by international regulations and the scientific community for calculating sun protection factors.

4)  What is special about the SPF-290AS light source?

It uses a continuous UV light source, simulating real sunlight as closely as possible. This design more closely resembles the environment of in vivo testing and the sunlight we are exposed to outdoors, making the measurement results more practically meaningful.

5)  Is the measured data convenient for further analysis?

Very convenient. The instrument's SPF data is stored in standard ASCII format, readable by common software like Excel and Access.

6)  How should the sample be applied?

The procedure is straightforward: First, perform a "blank" measurement on the dedicated test plate (e.g., PMMA plate) as a baseline. Then, evenly spread a quantified amount of the sun protection product in a dotted pattern on the plate to form a film of consistent thickness. The online help section of the WinSPF software details the operating steps.

7)  Does the instrument produce harmful ozone during operation?

Rigorous verification was conducted regarding concerns about potential ozone generation. While some electronic devices can produce trace amounts of ozone during operation, the ozone concentration generated by the SPF-290AS analyzer is below the detection limit of any currently known testing method.

Practical tests were performed using professional ozone detection tools from Lab Safety Supply (specific catalog numbers: 1A-5155-6 and 1A-5154-6). During testing, technicians operated the device continuously for several hours while monitoring beside it. The detection tools showed no indication of ozone presence.

It should be noted that the sensitivity of the detection tools used is: they can detect 0.1 ppm of ozone within a 15-minute detection cycle. The test results were well below this limit, fully demonstrating the safety of the device.

Shanghai Weipu Testing used the SPF-290AS to conduct testing: two sunscreen standards were used for method validation, and the test results of both met the required range for SPF standards.

Shanghai Weipu Testing used the SPF-290AS to conduct testing: the consistency between in vivo and in vitro testing for different types of sunscreen products was good.

「Application Value of Testing Instruments」

During cosmetic product development, using instruments like the SPF-290AS can help R&D personnel test the sun protection performance of different formulations, providing data support for formulation optimization.

In production quality control, regular testing of products can ensure the stability of sun protection efficacy across different batches. Data obtained from instrument-based testing provides technical support for product efficacy claims, helping companies respond to market supervision and quality audits.

「Conclusion」

Testing sun protection efficacy requires adherence to scientific methods and standard specifications. From in vivo to in vitro testing, the international standard system provides a complete technical framework for evaluating the efficacy of sun protection products. SOLAR LIGHT's SPF-290AS offers a technological option that can be used in the research, development, and quality control of sun protection products.

As a partner of Solar Light, we are committed to providing technical support for sun protection testing to the cosmetics industry. If you need more detailed information about the instrument or testing methods, please feel free to contact us!